Not sure which breed of chicken you want? Here is a handy little chart to help narrow it down.
http://www.ithaca.edu/staff/jhenderson/chooks/chooks.html
Monday, February 2, 2009
Complete Book of Self Sufficiency
This link is to a free online version of "Complete Book of Self Sufficiency". I encourage you to either print this out or at least download it to your computer.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/8794366/Complete-Book-Of-SelfSufficiency
http://www.scribd.com/doc/8794366/Complete-Book-Of-SelfSufficiency
Buying bulk wheat in Idaho
Here is a list of Idaho elevator’s that sell wheat for home use.
Burley – AgriSource 208-678-2286
6 gallon buckets – 46 lbs wheat type- HWW
Colfax, WA- Almota (509) 397-3456
Wheat type SW, HRW, DNW call for info
Arco – Arco Feed & Fertilizer (208) 527-8209
50 lb bags wheat type HWW, HRW
Meridian – Big D Ranch (208) 888-1710
50 lb bags wheat type HWW, HRW
Lewiston - CLD Pacific Grain (208) 746-0102
Wheat type SW, HRW DNS call for info
Genesee - PNW Farmers Coop (208) 285-1141
Wheat type SW, HRW, DNS, Barley call for info
Ririe - Johnson Grain (208) 538-5500
50 lb bags and 5 gallon buckets wheat type HWW, HRW
Pocatello - McNabb Grain (208) 233-6750
Wheat type HR, HWW call for info
Moreland - Moreland Grain (208) 684-5049
6 gallon buckets - 46 lbs wheat type HWW
Iona - Pasley Grain (208) 522-1910
Wheat type HWW call for info
Lewiston – Primeland (208) 743-8551
Wheat type SW call for info
Ririe - Ririe (208) 538-6712
50 lb bags wheat type HWW, HRW
Rupert - Snake River Seed (208) 436-9828
Wheat type Organic Flax call for info
Rexburg - Steiner Grain (208) 356-5531
6 gallon buckets - 46 lbs wheat type HWW, HRS
Montpelier - Walton Feed (208) 847-0465
50 lb bags wheat type HWW, HRS
Wendell- Wendell Elevator (208) 536-5661
Wheat type SW call for info
Burley – AgriSource 208-678-2286
6 gallon buckets – 46 lbs wheat type- HWW
Colfax, WA- Almota (509) 397-3456
Wheat type SW, HRW, DNW call for info
Arco – Arco Feed & Fertilizer (208) 527-8209
50 lb bags wheat type HWW, HRW
Meridian – Big D Ranch (208) 888-1710
50 lb bags wheat type HWW, HRW
Lewiston - CLD Pacific Grain (208) 746-0102
Wheat type SW, HRW DNS call for info
Genesee - PNW Farmers Coop (208) 285-1141
Wheat type SW, HRW, DNS, Barley call for info
Ririe - Johnson Grain (208) 538-5500
50 lb bags and 5 gallon buckets wheat type HWW, HRW
Pocatello - McNabb Grain (208) 233-6750
Wheat type HR, HWW call for info
Moreland - Moreland Grain (208) 684-5049
6 gallon buckets - 46 lbs wheat type HWW
Iona - Pasley Grain (208) 522-1910
Wheat type HWW call for info
Lewiston – Primeland (208) 743-8551
Wheat type SW call for info
Ririe - Ririe (208) 538-6712
50 lb bags wheat type HWW, HRW
Rupert - Snake River Seed (208) 436-9828
Wheat type Organic Flax call for info
Rexburg - Steiner Grain (208) 356-5531
6 gallon buckets - 46 lbs wheat type HWW, HRS
Montpelier - Walton Feed (208) 847-0465
50 lb bags wheat type HWW, HRS
Wendell- Wendell Elevator (208) 536-5661
Wheat type SW call for info
Easy Seed Saving for Beginners
This information is from http://www.seedsave.org/
Beans, Lettuce, Peas, Peppers and Tomatos offer the beginning seed saver the best chance for successful seed saving. They produce seed the same season as planted and are mostly self-pollinating, minimizing the need to be mindful of preventing cross-pollination.
Bean
HARVEST: Allow pods to dry brown before harvesting, about six weeks after eating stage. If frost threatens, pull entire plant, root first, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown. PROCESS: Small amounts of pods can be opened by hand. Flail larger amounts. Remove large chaff by hand or fork. Winnow remaining particles.
Lettuce
HARVEST: Some outside leaves can be harvested for eating without harming seed production. Allow seed heads to dry 2-3 weeks after flowering. Individual heads will ripen at different times making the harvest of large amounts of seed at one time nearly impossible. Wait until half the flowers on each plant has gone to seed. Cut entire top of plant and allow to dry upside down in an open paper bag.
PROCESS: Small amounts of seed can be shaken daily from individual flowering heads. Rub with hands to remove remaining seeds. If necessary, separate seeds from chaff with screens.
Peas
HARVEST: Allow pods to dry brown before harvesting, about four weeks after eating stage. If frost threatens, pull entire plant, root first, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown. PROCESS: Small amounts of pods can be opened by hand. Flail larger amounts. Remove large chaff by hand or fork. Winnow remaining particles.
Pepper
HARVEST: Harvest mature, fully-ripe peppers for seed. (Most bell peppers turn red when fully mature.) If frost threatens before peppers mature, pull entire plant and hang in cool, dry location until peppers mature.
PROCESS: There are two methods, dry and wet, to process pepper seeds. The dry method is adequate for small amounts. Cut the bottom off the fruit and carefully reach in to strip the seeds surrounding central cone. In many cases, seeds need no further cleaning. To process the seed from large amounts of peppers, cut off the tops just under the stem, fill a blender with peppers and water and carefully blend until good seeds are separated and sink to bottom. Pepper debris and immature seeds will float to the top where they can be rinsed away. Spread clean seeds on paper towel and dry in cool location until seed is dry enough to break when folded.
Tomato
HARVEST: If possible, allow tomatoes to completely ripen before harvesting for seed production. Unripe fruits, saved from the first frost, will ripen slowly if kept in a cool, dry location. Seeds from green, unripe fruits will be most viable if extracted after allowing the fruits to turn color.
PROCESS: Cut the tomato into halves at its equator, opening the vertical cavities that contain the seeds. Gently squeeze out from the cavities the jelly-like substance that contains the seeds. If done carefully, the tomato itself can still be eaten or saved for canning, sun-drying or dehydrating. Place the jelly and seeds into a small jar or glass. (Add a little water if you are processing only one or two small tomatoes.) Loosely cover the container and place in a warm location, 60-75° F. for about three days. Stir once a day. A layer of fungus will begin to appear on the top of the mixture after a couple of days. This fungus not only eats the gelatinous coat that surrounds each seed and prevents germination, it also produces antibiotics that help to control seed-borne diseases like bacterial spot, canker and speck. After three days fill the seed container with warm water. Let the contents settle and begin pouring out the water along with pieces of tomato pulp and immature seeds floating on top. Note: Viable seeds are heavier and settle to the bottom of the jar. Repeat this process until water being poured out is almost clear and clean seeds line the bottom of the container. Pour these clean seeds into a strainer that has holes smaller than the seeds. Let the excess water drip out and invert the strainer onto paper towel or piece of newspaper. Allow the seeds to dry completely (usually a day or two). Break up the clumps into individual seeds, label and store in a packet or plastic bag.
Beans, Lettuce, Peas, Peppers and Tomatos offer the beginning seed saver the best chance for successful seed saving. They produce seed the same season as planted and are mostly self-pollinating, minimizing the need to be mindful of preventing cross-pollination.
Bean
HARVEST: Allow pods to dry brown before harvesting, about six weeks after eating stage. If frost threatens, pull entire plant, root first, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown. PROCESS: Small amounts of pods can be opened by hand. Flail larger amounts. Remove large chaff by hand or fork. Winnow remaining particles.
Lettuce
HARVEST: Some outside leaves can be harvested for eating without harming seed production. Allow seed heads to dry 2-3 weeks after flowering. Individual heads will ripen at different times making the harvest of large amounts of seed at one time nearly impossible. Wait until half the flowers on each plant has gone to seed. Cut entire top of plant and allow to dry upside down in an open paper bag.
PROCESS: Small amounts of seed can be shaken daily from individual flowering heads. Rub with hands to remove remaining seeds. If necessary, separate seeds from chaff with screens.
Peas
HARVEST: Allow pods to dry brown before harvesting, about four weeks after eating stage. If frost threatens, pull entire plant, root first, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown. PROCESS: Small amounts of pods can be opened by hand. Flail larger amounts. Remove large chaff by hand or fork. Winnow remaining particles.
Pepper
HARVEST: Harvest mature, fully-ripe peppers for seed. (Most bell peppers turn red when fully mature.) If frost threatens before peppers mature, pull entire plant and hang in cool, dry location until peppers mature.
PROCESS: There are two methods, dry and wet, to process pepper seeds. The dry method is adequate for small amounts. Cut the bottom off the fruit and carefully reach in to strip the seeds surrounding central cone. In many cases, seeds need no further cleaning. To process the seed from large amounts of peppers, cut off the tops just under the stem, fill a blender with peppers and water and carefully blend until good seeds are separated and sink to bottom. Pepper debris and immature seeds will float to the top where they can be rinsed away. Spread clean seeds on paper towel and dry in cool location until seed is dry enough to break when folded.
Tomato
HARVEST: If possible, allow tomatoes to completely ripen before harvesting for seed production. Unripe fruits, saved from the first frost, will ripen slowly if kept in a cool, dry location. Seeds from green, unripe fruits will be most viable if extracted after allowing the fruits to turn color.
PROCESS: Cut the tomato into halves at its equator, opening the vertical cavities that contain the seeds. Gently squeeze out from the cavities the jelly-like substance that contains the seeds. If done carefully, the tomato itself can still be eaten or saved for canning, sun-drying or dehydrating. Place the jelly and seeds into a small jar or glass. (Add a little water if you are processing only one or two small tomatoes.) Loosely cover the container and place in a warm location, 60-75° F. for about three days. Stir once a day. A layer of fungus will begin to appear on the top of the mixture after a couple of days. This fungus not only eats the gelatinous coat that surrounds each seed and prevents germination, it also produces antibiotics that help to control seed-borne diseases like bacterial spot, canker and speck. After three days fill the seed container with warm water. Let the contents settle and begin pouring out the water along with pieces of tomato pulp and immature seeds floating on top. Note: Viable seeds are heavier and settle to the bottom of the jar. Repeat this process until water being poured out is almost clear and clean seeds line the bottom of the container. Pour these clean seeds into a strainer that has holes smaller than the seeds. Let the excess water drip out and invert the strainer onto paper towel or piece of newspaper. Allow the seeds to dry completely (usually a day or two). Break up the clumps into individual seeds, label and store in a packet or plastic bag.
High Altitude Vegetable Seeds
If you live at a higher elevation, you understand how difficult it can be to grow an abundent vegetable garden in a short, harsh season. This year I discovered the Seeds Trust, a seed company that specializes in high altitude seeds. They travel all over the globe in search of the hardiest varieties of vegetables they can find. And because they test their seeds in high elevation (6,000 ft.) Idaho gardens, I can trust they will work for me, as I am also in Idaho (4,000 ft.). Although I have not had the chance to test anything yet, as soon as spring arrives, I will be in the garden and will let you know how everything works out.
If you are looking for some seeds for this years crops, and you are in a harsh climate, I encourage you to check out the vegetable varieties they have on this site.
http://www.seedstrust.com/index.htm
They are especially fond of their tomatos. We all know how hard the frosts can be on our tomato plants. Luckily Seed Trust has, I believe, thirty-two varieties. Seven of these are their cold weather tomatos. These are the tomato varieties most likely to produce fruit in sketchy weather .
I went with the Sub Arctic Plenty Early Tomato and the Gem State Early Tomato. I'll let you know how well they do.
If you are looking for some seeds for this years crops, and you are in a harsh climate, I encourage you to check out the vegetable varieties they have on this site.
http://www.seedstrust.com/index.htm
They are especially fond of their tomatos. We all know how hard the frosts can be on our tomato plants. Luckily Seed Trust has, I believe, thirty-two varieties. Seven of these are their cold weather tomatos. These are the tomato varieties most likely to produce fruit in sketchy weather .
I went with the Sub Arctic Plenty Early Tomato and the Gem State Early Tomato. I'll let you know how well they do.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
